The darker side of beauty trends

This article is part of our Vogue Business membership package. To enjoy unlimited access to our weekly Beauty Edit newsletter, which contains Member-only reporting and analysis, the Beauty Trend Tracker and Leadership Advice, sign up for Vogue Business membership here. Wake up and meet the ‘morning shed’: one of the many trends doing the rounds on TikTok, it refers to an extreme overnight beauty regime that claims to snatch jawlines, plump skin and prevent signs of ageing. Proponents film themselves the morning after ‘shedding’ their mouth tape, under-eye patches, double chin-reducing face straps and heatless hair rollers. Over 3.2 million videos have been dedicated to creators sharing their morning routines, the most popular of which now feature their ‘morning shed’. TikTok creator Mayte Myers has amassed 9.5 million views and 456,400 likes across her top three shed videos “This trend appeals particularly to Gen Z and millennials who desire the effortless ‘I woke up like this’ look and prioritise a greater amount of time, energy and money in their skincare,” explains Meg Bedford, CEO of Loops Beauty, maker of the hydrogel eye and face masks that have featured in shed-related videos. However, there’s growing concern about the messaging. Much like #tradwife (which touts a return to traditional gender roles, including how women look and dress), #looksmaxxing (rating people’s looks and suggesting how they could score higher) and #browblindness (inviting others to weigh in on your makeup choices), the morning shed perpetuates not only a specific beauty standard, but a willingness to go to extreme lengths to get there. Participants tape their mouths shut and wrap their heads in slings just to sleep. It’s also a regression towards anti-ageing rhetoric aimed squarely — and often prematurely — at Gen Z. Experts warn brands to be careful about leaning into these TikTok trends. Social media has played a heavy hand in accelerating the consumption of fad-like anti-ageing products, which has led us to the morning shed trend, says Seema Rao, a cultural commentator known online as @ArtLust. “I think we hold a lot of the harm that previous generations give us, and then we push it forward; but then social media has pushed more. And so this generation is ‘looksmaxxing’, they’re trying to beat ageing and double the results,” she explains. TikTok has even implemented ‘search intervention’, which provides link-outs to expert resources to reduce content promoting harmful or disordered behaviours when users search potentially harmful terms. However, trends like the morning shed are appealing to creators for a simple reason: the more extreme the routine, and the more products they can promote within the video, the better for viewership and engagement. “I think that social media is a major source of ‘edutainment’, where information sits somewhere between education and entertainment. You can post almost anything on social media, and many of the viral videos are designed for their shock value and don’t represent reality,” says Dr Joshua Zeichner, associate professor of dermatology at New York's Mount Sinai Hospital. TikTok also has big ambitions to grow its Shop business this year, partly by luring affiliate link influencers — those who take a sales cut from any of the products they promote — while simultaneously altering its Creator Rewards payout programme. By promoting the morning shed routine, creators have been able to categorise and monetise both their content and products listed. For brands, this doubles as organic, community-driven promotion that they can take one step further with paid partnerships. It’s hard for brands to resist. Skincare and makeup brand Wonderskin first noticed the morning shed trend when a creator used its brow stain as part of their overnight shed routine, says brand director Marina Kalenchyts. “The right video gaining millions of views on TikTok used to be great for bragging rights and audience growth. Now, the same video tagging a product can generate thousands of dollars in affiliate commissions in one day,” she says. Reasons to be wary The sudden spike in sales that comes from jumping on a fast-moving TikTok trend may be tempting, though experts point out that many creators are unqualified and may not be aware of the risks carried by some of the products they are pushing. Multiple layers of products and devices might actually disrupt your sleep, preventing rejuvenation, warns esthetician Ian Michael Crumm, co-host of the ‘Beauty Curious’ podcast. He adds that the efficacy of mouth tape as a way of preventing wrinkles is contested. Likewise, Crumm says, “chin straps are most beneficial after surgery, like liposuction of the jawline, where they’re used to keep swelling down and aid in the healing process post-surgery. There isn’t going to be much of a benefit daily if someone did not have surgery — it’s likely to cause more discomfort than benefit.” Dr Richard Devine, plastic surgeon and co-founder of Carriages of Harley Street, also warns against combining products that can be harmful when used together. “Active ingredients like retinols or acids can be extremely irritating to the skin. If retinol is layered on in large quantities or acids are left on for longer than medically advised, this can damage the skin leading to redness, discomfort and pigmentation. Covering the skin with masks and serums for long periods of time can block pores and lead to breakouts.” Rao likens the efforts to commodify perfection to trying to hold onto water. “You’re holding onto not being, not ageing, you are holding onto something inhuman. It is impossible.” Brands should be selective about what trends they actively participate in, says Alicia Lindner, co-CEO of skincare brand Annemarie Börlind. “We carefully research trends to ensure they align with our values of sustainability, natural beauty and responsible innovation,” she says. When a trend is fit for raising specific product awareness, timing is crucial to jump on board. Though the morning shed emphasises traditional beauty standards, Lindner continues, “we are mindful of the potential discourse and strive to promote inclusivity, while celebrating individuality and diversity”. She emphasises that it is about raising awareness around product potential rather than standardised beauty ideals. The morning shed trend allows brands to capitalise on preparation as a foundational element of anti-ageing while also tapping into the appeal of viral trend marketing; however, Dr Zeichner cautions against extremes. “As a dermatologist evaluating this trend, I find that the most effective regimes are simple and consist of two or maybe three steps.” Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.

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